「好抹茶」是？(What is “good matcha”?)

文: TSUKIMI JAPAN
最後更新: 2024/NOV/07

(English below)

「好抹茶」是？
「具濃郁覆香、鮮味愈高、甘甜味愈高和愈沒有苦澀」。
最重要是能讓你一而再再而三地純粹回味。

近數十年，各地的抹茶甜品和飲品相繼增長。
對抹茶的評價著重為 : 能夠烘焙的就是「好抹茶」; 遇高溫不脫色就是「好抹茶」; 苦味夠「濃」就是「好抹茶」(誤以為苦味強就是濃味)。能夠沖甜飲的就是「好抹茶」。

愈高品質的抹茶反而成為了「不好抹茶」。
例如把「茶品評會抹茶」或「愈高級抹茶」直接拿去烘焙。自然沒有了香氣 ; 沒有了美麗的綠色 ; 沒有了天然的甘甜和鮮味，苦澀味本身也沒有(這會被視作不夠濃味)。

若以上對種茶或製茶的人來說，他們固然傷心，並回答這些只能作為「適合的抹茶」/「不適合的抹茶」。
只有純飲才能品嘗到原本的味道和有益身體的成份。

當然每人對「好抹茶」有不同的概念。能遇上「適合的抹茶」是一件樂事。

 

What is “good matcha”?

“Good matcha” is described as having a rich covered aroma (ooika), deep umami, natural sweetness, and little to no bitterness or astringency.
Most importantly, it’s something you want to return to again and again—simply for the pleasure of its pure taste.

In recent decades, matcha desserts and drinks have grown rapidly around the world. As a result, new standards of evaluation have emerged:

  • Matcha that works well for baking is considered “good”
  • Matcha that retains its green color under high heat is considered “good”
  • Matcha with a strong bitterness is mistaken for being “rich” in flavor
  • Matcha suitable for sweet drinks is considered “good”

Ironically, higher-quality matcha has come to be seen as “not good” in these contexts.

For example, using competition-grade or premium matcha for baking often leads to disappointment:

  • Its delicate aroma disappears
  • Its vibrant green fades
  • Its natural sweetness and umami are lost
  • Its lack of bitterness may be perceived as “weak flavor”

For tea growers and producers, this can be disheartening. From their perspective, it’s not about “good” or “bad” matcha—but rather whether a matcha is appropriate or inappropriate for a specific use.

Only when prepared as a pure tea can matcha fully express its original flavor and beneficial components.

Of course, everyone has their own idea of what “good matcha” means.
And discovering a matcha that truly suits your taste—that is a joy in itself.