抹茶風味的本質:多重因素的綜合結果 (The Essence of Matcha Flavor: A Synthesis of Multiple Factors)

文: TSUKIMI JAPAN
最後更新: 2026/FEB/01

(English below)

市場擴張下的抹茶品質取向轉變

近年抹茶需求急速上升,日本各地茶園亦相應調整栽培方向,以提升抹茶原料供應。然而,在市場迅速擴張的背景下,市面上亦逐漸出現愈來愈多側重於顏色呈現與明顯苦澀感為主的抹茶產品,其品質取向與傳統抹茶所重視的香氣層次、鮮味表現與整體平衡,逐漸出現偏離。此類現象並非侷限於單一產區,無論宇治或八女,早年皆已出現品質參差或商用標示誤導的情況1

也正是在這樣的市場背景之下,當抹茶愈來愈常被以單一感官指標加以理解時,部分產地所累積而成的風味特質,反而容易被簡化甚至誤讀。

風味感知中的常見誤讀

以星野抹茶為例,不少初次接觸者會形容其香氣或味道帶有堅果調或類似焙香的感受2,與一般對宇治抹茶的既定印象有所不同。然而,風味感受描述本身具主觀性,實際感受亦會因個人經驗與背景而有所差異;同時,此類風味表現亦不必然代表刻意採用高火或焙炒製程。

「火入れ」在傳統製茶中的真正角色

在日本傳統製茶中,「火入れ」本就是重要而不可或缺的環節,廣泛應用於煎茶、玉露乃至碾茶的製作,其目的在於穩定品質與調整風味輪廓,而非單純追求焙香感。

即使是高品質抹茶,亦會根據氣候條件、原料狀態、風味取向與製茶師的經驗,細緻調整溫度與時間。適切的「火入れ」能產生宜人的「火香(ひか)」3,帶出了茶葉的微妙香氣,同時使整體味道更為豐富,而非掩蓋原料本身的特質。

因此,抹茶的品質與風味走向無法簡化為「高火/低火」的二分判斷,也不能僅憑是否帶有焙香感受來推論其品質高低。根據《新版 日本茶の図鑑》所載之茶特徵資料,例如「宇治抹茶 成里乃」於香氣項目中的「焙煎香」較「星野抹茶 星授」更為顯著。此一差異顯示,不同產區與茶款的風味表現,更多反映風土條件與製茶取向,而非僅歸因於個別製程。

鮮味(うま味)的感官誤認

此外,亦偶有飲者將抹茶中的鮮味(うま味)誤認為「海水味」2。此類感受多源於對鮮味特性的陌生,而非抹茶本身存在異常風味。當缺乏相關味覺經驗時,飲者往往傾向以既有感官記憶進行類比,導致風味結構被誤解。此類現象,與將焙香感簡化理解為高火製程的情況,本質相近。

茶風味的本質:多重因素的綜合結果

值得一提的是,無論星野抹茶,抑或同樣以煎茶、玉露等日本茶為本、因應茶道或在地需求而發展的茶農與茶款,其風味皆源自長期累積的自然條件與製茶文化。產地環境、品種選擇、栽培方式、採收方式,以及製茶技術彼此環環相扣,並非其他產區或同縣茶廠僅憑單一製程步驟加以複製。

抹茶的香氣與味道,乃多項因素共同作用的結果,而茶師長期累積的感官判斷與經驗,亦同樣深刻影響其最終的風味表現。

正如我們一再提倡,抹茶不應只以色澤作為唯一標準,整體風味與平衡才是其真正價值所在。不同產區與製茶者在風味取向上的差異,正正體現了日本茶的多樣性與魅力。味道本屬主觀,能找到自己喜愛的風味,便已足矣。

 

1. 關於「八女抹茶/星野抹茶」的詳解,可重温以下2023年的文章:

👉https://www.tsukimixjapan.com/blog/posts/hoshino-yama-mathca

2. 味道喜好和認知因人而異,而生活背景及成長環境是重要因素之一。可參看以下文章:

👉https://www.tsukimixjapan.com/blog/posts/matcha-seaweed-flavor

3. 火香(ひか): 指茶葉在製茶過程(乾燥)中產生的芳香物質。即使是同樣的茶葉,方式和程度會影響茶葉的味道和香氣,這種香氣被稱為「火香(ひか)」。

 

Shifts in Matcha Quality Orientation amid Market Expansion

In recent years, the global demand for matcha has increased rapidly, prompting tea producers across Japan to adjust their cultivation strategies in order to expand the supply of matcha raw materials. However, against the backdrop of this rapid expansion, an increasing number of products on the market have come to emphasize surface attributes—such as a vivid green color and pronounced bitterness—often at the expense of the aromatic complexity, umami expression, and overall balance traditionally valued in matcha.

This shift in quality orientation is not confined to any single production area. Both Uji and Yame have, in earlier periods, experienced issues related to uneven quality and misleading commercial labeling¹. Under such circumstances, as matcha is increasingly interpreted through narrow sensory indicators, the nuanced flavor characteristics developed within certain production regions are more likely to be oversimplified or even misinterpreted.


Common Misinterpretations in Flavor Perception

Taking Hoshino matcha as an example, some first-time drinkers describe its aroma or flavor as nutty or reminiscent of roasted notes², which differs from the conventional image often associated with Uji matcha. However, sensory descriptions are inherently subjective and vary according to individual background and experience. Moreover, such flavor impressions do not necessarily indicate the intentional use of high-temperature or roasting processes.


The True Role of Hi-ire in Traditional Tea Processing

In traditional Japanese tea production, hi-ire has long been an essential and integral process, widely applied not only to sencha and gyokuro but also to tencha. Its purpose lies in stabilizing quality and refining the overall flavor profile, rather than simply imparting roasted characteristics.

Even in high-quality matcha, temperature and duration are carefully adjusted according to climatic conditions, the state of the raw material, the intended flavor direction, and the experience of the tea master. When properly executed, hi-ire can produce a subtle and pleasant hika (gentle fire aroma)³ that enhances aromatic depth and enriches the flavor without obscuring the intrinsic qualities of the tea leaves.

For this reason, the quality and flavor direction of matcha cannot be reduced to a simplistic dichotomy of “high fire” versus “low fire,” nor can the presence of roasted impressions alone be used to determine quality. According to flavor profile data presented in The Revised Encyclopedia of Japanese Tea, for example, the aroma category of “roasted notes” is more pronounced in “Uji Matcha Narino” than in “Hoshino Matcha Seiju.” Such differences suggest that variations in flavor are more accurately attributed to terroir and production philosophy than to any single processing step.


Misrecognition of Umami (Umami) Sensations

In addition, some drinkers occasionally mistake the umami (umami) present in matcha for a “sea-like” or “salty” flavor². This perception generally stems from unfamiliarity with umami as a taste modality, rather than from any abnormal flavor inherent to the matcha itself. When relevant sensory experience is lacking, individuals tend to rely on familiar taste memories as points of reference, which may result in misinterpretation of the overall flavor structure. This phenomenon is fundamentally similar to the tendency to equate roasted impressions directly with high-temperature processing.


The Essence of Tea Flavor: A Result of Interconnected Factors

It is worth noting that whether in the case of Hoshino matcha or tea farmers whose work is rooted in sencha, gyokuro, and other forms of Japanese tea developed in response to tea ceremony practices or local consumption needs, flavor profiles are shaped by the long-term accumulation of natural conditions and tea-making culture.

Growing environment, cultivar selection, cultivation methods, harvesting practices, and processing techniques are all closely interlinked. These elements cannot be replicated by producers in other regions—or even within the same prefecture—through a single processing adjustment alone.

The aroma and taste of matcha are thus the result of multiple interacting factors, while the accumulated sensory judgment and experience of the tea maker also play a decisive role in shaping the final expression.

As we consistently emphasize, matcha should not be evaluated solely on the basis of color. Its true value lies in overall flavor balance and harmony. Differences in flavor orientation among regions and producers are precisely what give Japanese tea its richness and diversity. Taste, after all, is subjective—and finding a flavor that resonates personally is, in itself, more than enough.

 

1. About Yame Matcha / Hoshino Matcha

For a detailed explanation of “Yame Matcha / Hoshino Matcha,” you can revisit the following 2023 article:
👉 https://www.tsukimixjapan.com/blog/posts/hoshino-yama-mathca


2. Individual Differences in Taste Preference and Perception

Taste preferences and sensory interpretations vary from person to person, and factors such as life background and cultural upbringing play important roles. For further discussion on this topic, see the following article:
👉 https://www.tsukimixjapan.com/blog/posts/matcha-seaweed-flavor


3. Hika (ひか)

Hika refers to the aromatic compounds generated during the tea production process (especially drying). Even when using the same tea leaves, the specific methods and intensity of processing affect the flavor and aroma of the final product, and this particular aroma is referred to as hika (ひか).